Includes bibliographical references and index.

Part One. The reconfiguration of the international couture industry

Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-17

Boué sœurs: “Compelled by the war”

“Gladdening the hearts of warriors” : the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in the First World War

Die kriegskrinoline : a feminine fashion between past and future

Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture

Part Two. The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries

Dressed to quill : the origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris

Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War

The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War

Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands : a neutral country during the First World War

Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti

Part Three. Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks

“Breeched, booted, and cropped” : a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-19

The French home front in 1914-18 : an investigation into female workwear

Rushing to suit up : French aviation’s adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-16

The spoils of war : use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France

Part Four. Fashion in print : questions of national fashion and gender

The gentleman turned “enemy” : men’s fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-18

The politics of fashion : German fashion writings in times of war

The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-18

Le Flambeau ’s fashion discourse during the First World War : towards a retrograde femininity?

Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 1915